“Curiosity is what separates us from the cabbages. It’s accelerative. The more we know, the more we want to know.”
David McCullough
(Taken from my journal notes)
My first trip to Ireland in 1994 merely whetted my appetite in the search for relatives, any relatives, from Europe. The trip had been a terrific success and a byproduct was to discover a researcher in Tipperary Town who would lead us to finding any living relatives.
So it was that son, John, and I planned a trip in 1995 that would take the researcher’s information on my Kennedy ancestors to the next level. We now were sure that Ballingarry, Tipperary was the village where GGGrandfather John Kennedy and his family lived prior to their departure to America.
On such a quest for relatives, the most rewarding aspect is the good fortune to share the adventure with one of your kids. John had the same desire as I had to learn more about our roots. We both have highly inquisitive minds and the time we would spend together would never be surpassed.
Tuesday, August 15
Arrived in Dublin at 10:00 a.m. and checked in at B&B in Naas, about 20 miles from Dublin. Met Pat Leamy at the Sherbourne Hotel pub and then went to dinner.
Wednesday, August 16
Drove from Naas to Kilkenny, where we toured the Kilkenny Castle. Had lunch in Callan. On the way from Callan to Ballingarry, we gave a ride to a hitchhiker, Joanne Fitzgerald (about 14) who lives in Ballingarry. Joanne told us that she thought she was related to a Kennedy. Her father, Jerry, told us where to find the two cemeteries in the village, one near the church and the other on the way out of the village.
(It was not unusual for us to pick up hitchhikers, regardless of gender, age, or inebriated status on roads in Ireland.)
While we were visiting the second one, Jerry drove up and told us to call on Tom Fitzgerald, the local “publican,” on the way toward New Birmingham (or Glen a Ghoul). He might know about the Kennedys.
John and I followed the directions for a time before we decided to ask a fellow working on a fence about Tom Fitzgerald. Were we going in the right direction? “You mean Tom Fitzgerald the publican?” Not accustomed to that terminology (I thought he was referring to a political affiliation), I responded, “I think so.”
Sure enough, further down the road was a former club, now defunct, where we found Tom Fitzgerald. Tom is about 65 and retired from the pub, his wife having died three years ago. He showed us the semi ruins of the upstairs where Kennedys had once lived with a large number of children. Actually, it was like one 18×20 foot room. He also pointed out that the distant coal mines to the northwest where people had worked. Tom also was able to give us the names of two women whose mother was a Kennedy. The women’s names: Eileen Stapleton Hogan and Nellie Byrne Kennedy, both of whom had mothers who were Kennedy sisters.
Tom didn’t know precisely where they lived in Ballysloe but Michael Hogan, who ran the store in New Birmingham, could direct us. Michael didn’t, but the woman behind the counter was able to direct us.
I always get confused when the Irish give me directions. This time was no exception. To say the least, the directions to Eileen’s house were complex, but we were so close to our goal, nothing could have stopped us. “Down the road, turn left at the Lane, go past the farm, a small house on your left.”
We drove an extremely long windy, narrow lane and stopped. Whoops! Wrong house, we didn’t go past the farm. Hope nobody meets us on this very narrow lane. Finally, a small cottage, but nobody appears to be home. Maybe somebody around the back? “Hello. I’m Tom Kennedy. You might be relative.”
It took a while for Eileen, a pleasant looking lady with a kind, handsome face, to determine that John and I meant no harm and that we were sincerely searching for relatives of our ancestors. But, as we were to learn later, she was not only cordial and welcoming, but Eileen was genuine, accommodating, and sincerely interested in learning more about us. We sat with her and her son, Sean, for about three hours in her house reviewing my Kennedy family tree and matching it with her family. She also shared some family pictures.
Finally left at approximately 6:00 p.m. and arrived back at the Dualla House without going through Cashel. Had dinner at Hannigan’s in Cashel, then walked to the castle, where we sat watching the sunset. Long day, but extremely worthwhile and fun.
Thursday, August 17
Toured the “Rock of Cashel” and then in the afternoon drove toward Ballysloe to find Nellie Kenny, who lives one- or two-miles past Eileen’s lane. There we visited with Nellie and Neelie Kenny and their daughter, Patricia. About 3:30, Pat gave us a ride to the “burial grounds” and old church ruins about a mile from their house. Here we met Nellie and Neelie Kenny, Mary McMahon, Mary Bowe, and Margaret Kinsella. Also, there was Mary’s daughter, Niamh. From there we went to the Ballingarry church cemetery, and then to Killenaule where Mary and her husband Oliver live. Oliver is a public school principal and likes doing family research. Left there about 7:00 and had dinner at the Horse and Hound.
Friday, August 18
Went to Tipperary Town to see Pauline Cummins of the Tipperary Heritage Unit. Pauline was the researcher who identified our Kennedy roots. From there, we went to Holy Cross Abby, and then back to see yet another relative, Margaret Tobin. Met her, her son Richard, and his wife Margaret plus their three kids (with one on the way). Daughter Bernadette lives across the street with her husband Joe. Went back to Cashel where we met Pat Leamy, John Hannigan, his wife Dorothea, and the locally celebrated Biddie, the barmaid.
Saturday, August 19
Met Dorothea at Hannigan’s at 10:00. She had told us last night that her mother was a Kennedy from around the same area as our relatives. Her mother was Rita Kennedy and that her father was John Kennedy. She also gave us the name of her cousin, John Kennedy, who does family research and is an English professor in Australia.
I did, in fact, later contact John via the internet and found that he was a professor at Charles Sturt University. We continue to stay in contact.
Left for Galway at 11:00. Had lunch in Portumna, where we learned that William Kennedy Smith had eaten at the same table the day before. Toward the end of lunch, John O’Meara introduced himself and asked if we were going to see the O’Kennedy Castle. John volunteered to go with us for an eight-mile ride through the country roads, where we found the castle. It’s in the middle of an uninhabited farm, and very few visit it.
On the way back to Portumna, John O’Meara and I were conversing when he started to sing a Latin drinking song which, for some reason, I knew. Together we sang a few verses which son John found quite amusing, he later told me.
Arrived in Galway at 5:30 and proceeded to find Bridey’s B&B (the Ave Maria House) which is two houses from Nessa O’Brien’s parents home on Galway Bay. Nessa lives in Denver and is a friend of, Isaac James, a young man from Joliet. Had dinner that evening at a classy restaurant and then went to “Bunch of Grapes” pub where we met the mayor of Galway, Michael Higgins.
Sunday, August 20
Church at St. Dominic’s and then lunch at the Country Club with Frank and Peggy O’Brien, parents of Nessa. Drove to Maam near Connemara where we saw the “Quiet Man” bridge and house. Went to dinner downtown Galway and a quiet evening. We are exhausted.
Monday, August 21
After meeting with a professor at University College Galway at 11:00, left for Dublin, which took us nearly three hours. Found a B&B in Swords. Had dinner and then went to a movie, “Dumb and Dumber.” (Sixth time for me.)
Tuesday, August 22
Visited Dublin bookstore and shops near Trinity and St. Steven’s Green. Visited University College Dublin, had dinner (beef pie), and went to Maive Binchey play at Andrews Theater, where we totally redeemed ourselves. Got home by 11:00.
Wednesday, August 23
Left for the airport by 8:30 a.m., took flight to London at 10:45, and on to Newark at 1:30. What a trip for John and me. Curiosity had been rewarded.
Success
In 1855, My great, great grandfather, James Kennedy (18) left Ballingarry and headed to America. A year later, James’ father John, his mother Catherine Corcoran Kennedy, and his sister Margaret arrived in the States. James also had two brothers, Thomas and John, who also emigrated during that same time. Ballingarry was the village where we found living relatives of my great, great grandfather! Relatives we never knew about until now.
For the first trip, see https://trkennedybeginsinbraidwood.com/2019/09/25/into-ireland-the-first-time/
Braidwood Beginnings 