My Alaska Trip with Tony Delgado on a Dollar a Day

“Where is the boy to whom the call of the wild and the open road not appeal?”

Baden Powell de Aquino

We talked about it for years, but it was all talk.

Tony Delgado and I were teammates at Lewis College in 1962. Four years later in 1965-66, we were once again together teaching and coaching at Roncalli High School in Aurora. Although Tony was from the inner city of Chicago, he, like me, loved nature and travel.  My fascination with wilderness led to fantasies about the “last frontier” of Alaska where nature was still somewhat pristine and unpopulated, a fantasy that Tony shared.  So we talked about someday going up to the true north woods.

Fast forward to the College of St. Francis circa 1983 where he and I were together again and continued our dream about going to Alaska. Of course, we were both in Catholic education and our financial resources were extremely limited.  In those intervening years, our shared dream got us exactly as far as…Joliet. 

Then, one afternoon in Tony’s office, we concluded that we were tired of just talking. We needed a plan if we were going to do this. We weren’t getting any younger.

“…Come my friends. ’tis not too late to seek a newer world. Push off, and sitting well in order smite the sounding furrows; for my purpose holds to sail beyond the sunset, and the baths of all the western stars, until I die.”

Alfred Lord Tennyson, Ulysses

The Plan

A trip like this would probably cost about $5,000, an unsurmountable amount on our meager salaries.  What if we put away $1 each per day for five years? We could surely afford a dollar a day. That would amount to $3,650, an amount that might be invested during that time. It would give us a pretty good start.

That was the day Tony and I started with an envelope in his desk drawer that might carry us to the north woods.  But we needed a visual motivator and reminder, so Tony put up a large map of North America on his wall and, with a magic marker, started our northward trek estimating how far our meager beginnings would take us.  With this visual and the addition of a few more dollars, we saw our daily/weekly progress, slowly leaving Illinois on to Wisconsin and further. (Interestingly, the distance from Joliet to Anchorage is 3,594. At a dollar per mile, we would have $56 left over for food!)

We both took side jobs of refereeing basketball games and kept investing with any extra money we might be able to scrounge up.  After a couple of years, we had enough to invest in a mutual fund and build up a few more dollars. Our mutual fund did well enough and by January 1988, we had our $5,000. Our plan had worked.

“The mass of men lead lives of quiet desperation. What is called resignation is confirmed desperation.”  

Henry David Thoreau

The following section is from my journal on our trip.

July 15, 1988

After five years of planning and saving our money, Tony Delgado, JoAnne, and I are actually making our way to Alaska. I have always had a burning desire to visit or live in Alaska, so this adventure somewhat fulfills a dream.

It is funny how dreams and desires that were so intense years ago can be rekindled once again. I had pretty much given up, or at least put to sleep, the notion of seeing the last frontier of America. Family and job responsibilities – all with their rewarding entanglements – effectively eliminated any thoughts of the trip. It was a conversation one day March 16, 1983 with Tony that initiated the action that now has me on a plane at 7:53 AM on the way to Seattle and then to Anchorage where I will meet Tony and JoAnne. They arrived last night at 8:20.

Our schedule from here on is fairly flexible. Our return flight is on Sunday, July 31, and in between time we totally immersing ourselves in the country. We intended to camp and see is much as we can in 16 days. We have had the good fortune of coming into contact with Tom Gittens, the owner of a construction company in Anchorage. Tom is a friend of Monsignor George Hussmann, who is the brother of Hank with whom I work at Regis. This extended friendship has enabled us to arrange for a 4-wheel drive pick-up, and a place to stay when we are in Anchorage. It is hard to believe the hospitality of this man.

So, what does Alaska represent to me? A place where people are open and adventurous. A place that has not been ravaged by centuries of civilization. A place where nature does very well, thank you, without the interference of people. Of course, I could be wrong on all counts, but this is what it means to me.

And whatever it turns out to be, my whole being is sponge like, ready to absorb every sensation and detail. Every sight, sound, smell, touch, and taste– every sense – will be turned into everything Alaska. I am ready for it.

This is my Northwest Passage, my dream of things that can be. Isn’t it better to dream like this thanalways live in the humdrum, daily existence that becomes so easy and routine as we grow older? I have a sense that this trip will not fulfill my expectations. I will try to write a few notes each evening. 11:37 p.m.

Sunday July 17^th

It is close to midnight and I’m writing this as I lay in my tent with no light on. It is still light enough to read and write.We set camp this afternoon along the New Russian River not too far from the Kenai Peninsula. The Russian River is known for its salmon run which be begins in a few days. We haven’t seen any bears yet.On Friday evening and Saturday, we camped near Portage at the Brown Bear Camp. It’s a beautiful place near the Portage Glacier. We saw the Porter Glacier and also saw a moose and its baby. I also called home.On Saturday we hiked up a steep trail at Falls Creek and saw mountain goats. Later we drove to Hope. On the way, we saw some beautiful waterfalls.On Sunday we moved our camp to the Russian River. My observation is that the mountains are a lot greener than I expected. Daylight at midnight is weird. I find that nature is in charge here. Glaciers wildlife, tides, and quick sand.

Tuesday, July 19, 1988

We camped last night last two nights on the Russian River. Yesterday, we hiked to the lower Russian Lake and then to the Russian River Falls where we saw salmon moving upstream. Unbelievable that these fish can swim up the Falls. Also saw two ranchers with rifles and several fishermen with guns on them. The trail hike was about 8 miles. In the meantime, we were armed only with a referee whistle so we wouldn’t surprise the bears.

In the afternoon of the 18^thwe drove to Kenai. Beluga Point is where we saw boats coming in from the ocean. It must’ve been 200 of them. They only work for one month and the owners make between $100,000 – $225,000. We also visited with Lee Stocker, Gladys, and Kevin, all friends of Larry Goggins. They are all from Minooka.

We picked up camp and left at 10 AM and headed back toward Anchorage.

Tuesday, July 19^thin the afternoon.  We got to our campground at Eklutna in the afternoon. It is perhaps the most beautiful place, with very few people here.  A lake extends all the way to the distant glacier. We washed clothes, where we met Charleston, a Korean architecture student in Paris, and shopped for groceries. (TK not feeling well.)

Wednesday, July 20^th

Went downtown to Anchorage where we see Tom and Rita Gittens (and secretary Jodi) at the construction company office. We then headed downtown for shopping.  We spent quite a bit of time there and watched a movie at the Forest Park Service visitors’ center.  We got back to Gittens’ place about 6:00 p.m. and he rewarded us with a camper top and three foam rubber mattresses for the truck.  Guess what! It rained that night as we all slept in the truck and our tents got soaked.  Thank God for Tom Gittens.  (TK still not feeling well.)

Drove to Denali Park, arriving in the afternoon rain.  We didn’t expect to get a camp site, but we did in the Savage River camp area.  Went to see the Lodge Hotel where I bought a Robert Service book. (TK definitely sick now.) Rained again.

Friday, July 22^nd

Caught the bus (no cars allowed) at 6:40 a.m. for Wonder Lake where we did not see Mt. McKinley but did see three bears, several caribou, moose, doll sheep, chickens (ptarmigan), etc.  Was perhaps the roughest road on a school bus for 10 hours, and a somewhat gloomy day.  Mt Denali was hidden behind the clouds, a usual occurrence, we were told.  After we were dropped off at our site, we decided on a good meal at the hotel. Had three rounds of lasagna. (TK sickest he has been but refused to throw up his expensive meal.)

Saturday, July 23^rd

We decided we had seen enough of Denali (not the mountain which we now doubt that it really exists) and headed toward Valdez.  Took the gravel road – Denali Road – and had lunch at the Gracious House.  Met June the waitress and Steve the cook.  June has invested $200 in the new gold mine and will be spending the winter as the cook.  Steve, a ballet dancer, will be heading to Nevada again this winter.  Great stop!  Made reservations at the Johnson House in Valdez, where we arrived about 11:30 p.m. Our entrance into Valdez was spectacular.  Thompson Pass, about 30 minutes outside Valdez, was unbelievably beautiful as we descended from the mountains.  Clouds hanging glowingly and misty below us as a foreground to the green mountains and river valley. (TK better.)

Sunday, July 24^th

Went to church at St. Francis, where Fr. Charles A. Wollesen, a Jesuit, said mass.  He was assisted by a great altar boy.  Sunny day went to Worthington Glacier where Tony and I climbed our asses off.  (Tony almost lost his when he slipped.)  Also saw Bridal Veil and Horse Tail Falls. Stayed at the Johnson House.

Monday, July 25^th

At 8:00 a.m., it is rainy, but we scheduled a boat tour of the Columbia Glacier.  Air was about 42 degrees and water about 33 degrees.  Saw seals, sea lions, and eagles.  Spectacular views of floating pieces of the glacier as we maneuvered among them.  Got back at 2:00 p.m.

We then proceeded back to Thompson Pass area.   We saw the ugliest dog in Alaska at the picnic site.  We then stayed at the Johnson House again.

Tuesday, July 26^th

Drove to Glennallen and then west to Tolsona Lake camp area. Checked in with an old fellow named Risley (Grizzly when he was mad).  His best advice was, “Fifteen minutes of pleasure isn’t worth 24 years of misery.”  He had a one-nighter with his wife’s best friend and was caught. She divorced him but after 24 years, they re-married. Oddly, she lives in Oklahoma and Griz lives in Alaska except for a few weeks in the year when he visits her. 

Wednesday, July 27^th

Went for a canoe ride on Tolsona Lake where we read and slept on an island. Later went on an aborted hike through a boggy area toward a lake.  Back to the Lodge in the evening where the bartender was also the waiter, organist, and singer.  He entertained us for a while.

Thursday, July 28^th

Now here at Municipal Park campground area.  Went to a dirty Harry movie, “Dead Pool.”

Friday, July 29^th

Went to Alyeska and took the lift to the top of the mountain for a view of Turnagain Arm and surrounding mountains.  Also visited Portage Glacier again.  Dinner at Pizza Hut and some shopping in Anchorage.

Saturday, July 30^th

Packed everything and was done by 12:30 p.m., then took Eagle River trail for about four miles.  Went to mass at 5:00 at St. Patrick Church, then washed the truck.  Finished shopping downtown and spent $155, mostly for Dolores. Dinner at Sizzler and then to Gittens’ house at 9:00 p.m.  The two dogs on chains were, or seemed to be, hungry for our companionship.  What a house!  $350,000??  With security systems and alarms all over the place.  Their downstairs where we stayed was the coldest I had been on the entire trip.

Sunday, July 31^st

Dressed, loaded the truck, escaped the dogs, and left for the airport. Stopped for our last meal at McDonalds’ and saw Mount McKinley for the first time – 190 miles away, but clear. Huge!

Flight was at 10:50 a.m. and will arrive in Denver at 5:50 p.m. local time.

P.S.: I ate at least twice as much on the trip as I would ordinarily eat at home.  Have come to the conclusion that Alaska is a beautiful place, but not where I want to live. Magnitude of the state is unbelievable.

August 5, 1988

General Highlights and Observations of Alaska after a few days:

• The spectacular Colors:  green forests and mountains; blue/grey water; flowers of orange, yellow, purple, red, and blue
• Countless shapes of mountains and vastness of valleys
• Blue-tinted glaciers of snow and water
• Fast moving rivers that would sweep you away
• Clear, cold lakes
• Long, winding roads past unpopulated areas
• Towns and villages with so few people
• Sounds of waterfalls, rivers; and sounds of nothing but silence
• Animals and birds, and fish; bears, moose, squirrels, caribou, mountain goats, and sheep; sea gulls, eagles, and ptarmigan; salmon and seals
• Camper vans, pickups, and abandoned cars sitting in yards
• Talking with visitors from Germany and Japan
• Hospitality of Alaskans; everyone was generous and caring
• Hundreds of fishing boats returning to the harbor
• Gold seekers and the tragedy of a newlywed who couldn’t be rescued. Wedged in the mud in Turnagain arm
• The night we saw “Round Up Time in Texas” starring Gene Autrey and Smiley Burnett. It was so bad that we laughed through the whole movie.
• Tony sitting high on a mountain top singing “The Hills are Alive….”

The Alaska trip fulfilled a dream for me, Tony, and JoAnn.  For 15 days, the three of us became even closer friends and the trip became the basis for hundreds of conversations since 1988. Was it like I expected?  Not exactly, but it was better in so many ways. My dream was to go to Alaska. The better part was that I had my teammate and his wife to share the dream.

“A journey is a person in itself; no two are alike. And all the plans, safeguards, policing, and coercion are fruitless. We find that after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us.”

John Steinbeck